Expedition 9 to 5

Less than 1% of the park’s 6 million yearly visitors see the bottom of the Grand Canyon. I was raised in a family that encourages a silly delusion that maybe some of you share. It’s the “how hard can it really be?” mindset. So, when approached with opportunities like doing a 17-mile hike down and up a worldwide geological phenomenon, I usually air on the side of delusional self-confidence. 

I had planned an extensive National Park trip, budgeting approximately 36 hours for the Grand Canyon. There was one goal in mind. If I was going to see the Grand Canyon in a day and a half, I would see all of it. Now, I am not saying the rim-to-rim trail is easy, but I will tell you that my dad had been in the Grand Canyon a year prior and regretted not trekking to the bottom. He spent a few months mad at the Rangers, who advised him against the rim-to-rim hike. Don Vollmar confidence. That being said, I would never recommend this hike to anyone who isn’t prepared. 

Here is how I did it: 

I planned this trip 2-3 months in advance, so staying inside the park was not an option. We decided to opt for a campsite right outside the park grounds. This meant a 45-minute drive to the Bright Angel Trailhead, which meant a 4:30 AM wake-up and a 5:00 AM departure to catch the 6:00 AM bus from the Bright Angel Lodge to the South Kaibab Trailhead. Why so early, you ask? There are only three time slots the Hiker’s Express route departs for the rim-to-rim hike. 6 AM, 7 AM, and 8 AM. As an added layer, we did this during the covid era, so bus spots were limited. With three departure times and 15 people per ride, it was an all-out competition to make this bus. The importance of starting this hike early in the morning cannot be stressed enough. You may have to race a 15-year-old child from the parking lot to the bus line to secure your spot. Not that I’m speaking from experience or anything. 

We started the hike at 6:30 AM, as the sun was slowly rising from behind the canyon. I recommend dressing in layers. I started in leggings, a tank top, a t-shirt, and a windbreaker, shedding a layer as the sun towered higher in the sky. There is strategy in going down Kaibab first. Hiking down to the Colorado River is easy; going up is another story. As you ascend Bright Angel, there are two rest areas where you can fill up your camelbacks and water bottles. The first is Plateau Point at the bottom of the canyon, and the second is Indian Garden, about halfway up Bright Angel. Preparation and water are the most critical facets of this hike. You should not attempt this hike unless you have adequately prepared with training. Before this trip, I had spent the prior six months hiking, skiing, and running at high altitudes in Dillon, Colorado. I also conducted extensive research on the amount of water and food we would need to have sufficient energy and avoid dehydration as well as hyponatremia. 

Pro Tip: Pack 3 liters of water per person and ensure you have electrolytes to balance your hydration and energy levels. My preferred mix is ZipFizz. 

Now that I have done my due diligence in emphasizing the importance of preparation, I can get into why this hike should be on everyone’s bucket list. I have never seen a view as breathtaking as the sunrise over the Grand Canyon. The sky erupts into a bright orange and golden color that lights up the entire canyon from top to bottom. The decent is casual and relaxed. You soak everything in, from the wildlife to changing colors of the sedimentary rock. The hike down is brisk and peaceful, filled with conversation and incredible lookout points. We completed the 7-mile descent of Kaibab in about 2 hours. We wined and dined at the bottom of the canyon as we crossed over into Phantom Ranch. The menu, you ask? PB&J, trail mix, Z bars, pretzels, and dried fruit, prepared by yours truly. We spent some time exploring and then decided it would be best to go on our way, stopping at Plateau Point for our first water refill. 

Now for the rewarding part. A 7-mile straight ascent made almost entirely of steps and switchbacks. You feel pretty badass when you see the folks coming down the trail on mules and less badass when you see the ultramarathoners running up and down the trail at triple your pace. The key is to use that “less than 1%” as your motivation. Once we reached Indian Garden, we were very thankful for the break. We rested for 30-45 minutes, refilling our water for the second time, hiding from the brutal sun, and sunscreening up. At this point, I was down to my tank and leggings, which felt like too much clothing. After Indian Garden, there are 4.5 miles to go and no moderation left. Switchbacks all the way up. Get your mind right and pull your electrolytes out. The switchbacks are deceiving; looking up creates an optical illusion that makes you feel closer to the rim than you actually are. In the last 2 miles, morale had decreased, and the amount of breaks had increased. The views got less and less pretty as I was predominately looking at my feet, willing each step after the other. At 3:15 PM, we reached the end of the trail. I have never felt such relief and satisfaction as when I finished that hike. We took one last photo with the Canyon, and I promise you I have never looked so busted in my life. Because we took the shuttle, we had a short walk back to the car parked at the Bright Angel Lodge. We promptly stopped at the market to grab some beer and wash down our success with another PB&J. I then settled into the best night’s sleep I have had to this day.